From the wildest and most exuberant nightlife to muffled silences interrupted only by the distant cry of flamingos; from the linear beaches where the bathing establishments line up recliners like regiments in a holiday army to the unexpected canals, pathways and river branches that creep through the reeds like explorers in the bush; from the early 20th-century charm Grand Hotel beaches to the ancient charm of solitary jetties extending into the Adriatic. The sea around Venice has more than one expression, it is a universe of variations to be explored one day at a time.
Jesolo, seaside capital
Days under the sun and nights under the stars, it’s not Ibiza, but those are its rhythms. This is the Adriatic’s seaside capital: Jesolo. Its 15 km-long golden beach is synonymous with seaside relaxation. Just the thing if you are simply looking to switch off or if you need to gather your strength to tackle the lively nightlife, browse the shops, try the restaurants (if you can't make up your mind, try a little of everything at the Magazzino delle Scope that specialises in seasonal seafood snacks), and dive into attractions such as the Caribe Bay, an internationally renowned themed water park that is almost better than the sea. Jesolo has much to excite and entice even if you are travelling with the family or are a sports enthusiast, with cycle paths, events and activities for all ages. But if it is silence and solitude that you seek, this is not the place for you, but there are alternative options.
Punta Sabbioni
‘Sabbioni’ translated literally means ‘big sands’. Its name does not disappoint, there is a lot of sand here, in the form of real sand dunes. It may not quite be the Algerian Saraha, but it is still a protected ecosystem that preserves the original morphology of the Upper Adriatic coastline. Push on towards the harbour mouth where the sea enters the Venetian Lagoon to find a few more bathing establishments, but more importantly, a large public beach where you can let your dog off the leash without any problems. As you approach the jetty made of Istrian stone blocks, you’ll be greeted by a myriad of anchored boats. Take a seat at the Lighthouse Kiosk, dip your feet in the water, which is clearer here than anywhere else then walk to the lighthouse, and immerse yourself in the shimmer of the sun on water and the wind with its briny scent of the open sea. Punta Sabbioni can be reached by car or by motor ship from Venice. There are parking spaces at the piers or at the Lungomare Dante Alighieri (at the end of which the beach begins).
The Venice Lido: vintage seaside
The Lido beaches are the closest to the centre of Venice. The island can be reached in 15 minutes by vaporetto from the San Zaccaria stop. For centuries, the Lido was shoreline for fisherman, then towards the end of the 19th century it became a holiday resort and Art Nouveau villas, tree-lined boulevards and large hotels were built. Two are of particular note: the Hotel Des Bains, made famous by the film based on the short story Death in Venice and the Hotel Excelsior, the backdrop for the Film Festival events in September: each hotel has its own bathing establishment. Both of these bathing establishments are however, open to everyone. In fact, as the Hotel Des Bains is closed, their beach is exclusively for outsiders. A day under fringed parasols or in the cool of canvas huts combines hedonistic seaside relaxation with fin de siècle elegance. Choose one of the two beaches or simply stroll along the sandy shore (which you are free to do) towards the south to reach any of the restaurants beyond the Excelsior, such as Bagno Marconi.
Sottomarina: fun at the other end of the lagoon
For the Italian locals, Sottomarina and Chioggia, which are just a stone’s throw from each other, should never be confused. But undeniably, one serves as a beach for the other. There is no need for vaporettos to get to the beaches which are an equal to but an opposite of those on Jesolo which are devoted high-paced to fun and relaxation. At around 10-km long and 30-metres wide, the Sottomarina beach has plenty of space for bathing establishments and public areas. Thanks to its shallow, gently sloping seabed, it is perfect for families with children. The waterfront is lively, with restaurants, bars and sports activities such as kite surfing and beach volleyball.
Quiet, listen to the River Adige
The mouth of the Adige is the place where you can recapture something of the ancestral appearance of the Veneto shore. The beach here is all public (no bathing establishments) made up of solitary stretches of sandy beach and stone dykes that jut into the sea to protect the shore from high tides. Reconnect with the gentler aspects of the seaside: climb up to the panoramic observation tower to watch as the sunset sets the mouth of the river ablaze with colour. If you have a bicycle (you can also rent one from Porzionato in Rosolina Mare), don’t forget to visit the wetlands and casoni (hunting lodges) in the surrounding area, push on to the Museo Diffuso di Via delle Valli - Cason Veniera open-air museum, cycle along the banks of the ‘valli di pesca’ (fishing ponds) among thousands of flamingos, and stop off at the Ristorante al Monte for excellent local fish dishes.
